March Notes, Kumasi, Abuakwa-Manhyia, Adugyama

March 4, 2009, Kumasi, Ashanti Region: I went to "Tech", K.N.U.S.T. The Univ. of Kumasi, got there around 8:30am, walked around the art dept. plaster, concrete sculptures, organic, curvy lines, abstracted figures.

Went to the back of the sculpture area. Many sculptures among the trees, rubble piles of rubble fron the chipping left over. A student was drawing a pencil drawing of a bld. not one that was in front of him. Finishing touches it looked like. Met Dorothy and Saddam was there, both art professors/lectures and artists. Saddam showed me his paintings. He just started teaching up north near Bolgatanga. His paintings many layers of color, warm tones with swaying lines, figures like spirits, whisps, ghosts, another world, dance, movement, light, lightness, a place not bound by gravity.

Dorothy showed me her work. Fabric installations using jute, little color pieces of of fabric, environments, textured, rooms, spaces, meditation, rest, paths, spiritual domains, warm colors, browns of jute, warrior gown patches of colored cloth on brown jute shirt almost a looks like a jesters outfit.

Dorothy and Saddam gave me a tour of the art depts. Her class doing relief clay, looked like Morandi studies grey tones of bottles and bowls. Met the sculpture intstructor, students chipping, filing stone, making large insects. Really nice work by the students, an ant using metal as legs, stone as body. Saw the instructor's work, carved scupture, opal green. One scupture had a moon, told me the story that when it's a full moon, you're not supposed to kill an animal. They are mating then.

We went to the painting Dept. Fig. drawing/painting. Women models nude but male models with pants. Dorothy and Saddam had a discussion with students and the instructor present. The lecturer explained that students get embarrassed. Saddam argued that this is their study, their practice. Students of Medicine get uncomfortable as well when they have to cut cadavers.

March 7th, 09: Sat. Went to Mabel and Seth's wedding at Lighthouse Chapel. Nice wedding. Mr. Fudzie said at the end, "This church has no fans." I thought he said, "This church has no fun". On the way to the a little bar/restaurant, Mr. Fudzie stops by someone he knows. He takes a can of corned beef from under his car seat and gives it to her. He has done this before to friends he sees while driving.

on T.V. Afro pop legends Osibisa documentary. Ghana group from the 70s and their influence, funk, African sounds, horns, R&B, jazz. Teddy Osei being interviewed.


March 8, 09: Sunday, Visiting the Chief in Adugyama, the village I plan to stay in. I am told it is customary to visit the chief and explain your purpose in the visit. It is also customary to bring a bottle of Schnapps. When I went to the liquor store, they told me the chief would prefer the more expensive Dutch brand. I had already met the chief a week earlier at Doris's where I am staying. He is a friend of hers. He said he'd be up in the village and said to come visit. He is a young business man who spends a lot of time in England: We came upon the chief's palace. Three nice black vehicles parked in front. We entered and Constance and I sat in the chairs for the formal greeting. There were many elders there with their togas. The elder on my right was to cue me and Constance was on my right to interpret for me as well.

The chief finally entered and we all stood, about 12 of us. We greeted the chief formally by going up to him at his golden chair and shake his hand. I was supposed to take off my glasses and say, Nana... something I can't remember.

Then, they asked my mission. "What is your mission here?" The chief spoke through his interpreter and I spoke back to his interpreter. My friend Constance was also helping. I told them I was here to meet Andrew's friends and family and to learn about village life here . I might stay and informally teach children the visual arts and also share Ghana culture with people in the U.S. via the internet.

The chief offered me his nice western style apartment at the palace to stay in. He said he was aware of all the good things Andrew has done for this village and I am welcome. He asked that he be made aware of any projects I do and keep things transparent.

I told him through his interpreter that I was not with any NGO. What I'd be doing is an informal experience with the village and that if possible I'd hope to experience village life by living with a family here, maybe with the family Andrew's with. He said his place would always be available and I am welcome. We drank some Schnapps as well.

We ended up back at Aunt Bea and Atto's, and Aunt Bea made some Fufu for Constance and me. We both ate with our hands and this Fufu was better than the other Fufufs I've had so far. Bea warned me not to eat too much and said George and Bev got stomach problems from eating too much Fufu too soon. Constance ate a lot and picked up the bowl and started drinking it.

Tro-tro, van transportation to get around in. Kwame explained it's called that because tro-tro is the lowest pesewa like a penny. T.V. news: residents dig up oystser shells along sides of road causing road destruction/deterioration, somewhere along the coast. Ghana lost 0-2 to The Democratic Republic of Congo, the final in the Pan African Games, Chan Tournament? Michael was crowned champion in Mentor Four, Ghana's version of American Idol. The final four were: Michael, Sam, Aisel, and Julie. In Sub-Saharan Africa, 1 out of 3 children are engaged in child labor, T.V. News, channel 2, 7:30pm.

March 10th, 09: Monday was Armed Forces Day, children got flights at the airforce base near Accra. This was the first time for some and they were crying. The T.V. news also includes stats regarding developing countries/African welfare: The UN reports, 1 billion people have no access to safe water, 9 million in Ghana have no access to safe water.

March 13th, 09: T.V. news: Ghanaian film director, Sembene Ousmane received posthumous award. The book, Dead Aid by Dambisa Moyo released argues aid is detrimental to Africa. China method of business partnerships better model. Jazz Musician, Ken Addy on T.V.

March 17, 09, Tuesday: At the Culture Center, drink Amuduro, a ginger drink like Jamaican Ginger Ale. We talk about Aliha which I had in Accra. It's a corn, sugar, and water drink. In Twi the call it, "Alewonhyon".

March 28, 09 Saturday: Two baby goats were born on the front porch right outside my bedroom. We watched off and on for a couple hours. After about 30 minutes, the first one was on its legs and walking a little. The mother was licking off the placenta.

Yaw Bimpe and Kwaku Baah played a game on the table using bottle caps. The bottle caps were the soccer players and a kernel of corn or a small stone was used as a ball. You push the bottle caps to hit the kernel into the goal and use the bottle caps to block the path. Watched the boys play soccer in the evening.

Thunderstorm last night, blankets of rain, wind blowing, pours on the metal roof. The sound so loud we couldn't speak, chilly so we wrapped ourselves. Dark. Blowing Trees. The T.V. antennas attached high above bamboo poles did not fall down in the heavy winds.

March 30, 09, Monday: Went to Star Oil and did computer stuff, walked through the markets of Abuakwa, bought pots from a woman 7 cedis fro 2 pots. Most sold only sets of 5, so I was happy and she was happy. Bought plastic bowl, fork, spoon, knife for 2 cedis. Talked to Danny , a scuptor of wood, along the way to Lincoln School.

March 31, 09 Tuesday: Long wait for tro-tros at Abuakwa. People rushing, cramming to get inside. Girl waving goodbye to me as they drove off, happy she was on. After waiting for almost an hour, caught a share taxi for 1 cedi. Lots of traffic, came late to the Cultural Center. New Students there from the University. Finished drawing 30 more Adinkra symbols, students complimenting me on my drawings. Started my first batik, drew four symbols, forgiveness, unity, faithfulness, death, overlapping symbols. Ate Eto for lunch. The woman came with the food on her head. It was a paste of ground nuts and plantains I believe they said and then she added avocado, a hardboiled egg, ground nuts, onions and sauce. It was delicious. 1 cedi.
There were auditions in the auditorium, singers, so David and I listened for a while.

In the evening, I followed David, my teacher, to his choir practice at the Seventh Day Adventist Church north of the Culture Center. We walked through a shanty region which David said was mostly people from the north. He said they usually stay separate. He said they are often poorer and are looked down upon by many in Ghana. He said the Ashantis make fun of them a lot but are probably the closest the northern Ghanaians as well.

I listen to David's choir sing. They sing Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring in Twi. 50 people in the choir, an organist. They also sing "How Great Thou Art" in Twi. They sing a couple more traditional songs that sound very good.