Akwaaba! I'm in Ghana!

I finally made it. I'm here in Ghana. After a year and a half of saving my money, I arrived in Accra on Feb. 19th at around 10pm.

In Accra, I stayed two nights at the Olive Guesthouse, on the way to the University of Ghana, Legon. The lodge is in the Westlands, also known as West Legon. This was the area the British settled due to the nice breezes from the hills. It was considered a malaria free area. It is also the area where some nuns of the School Sisters of Notre Dame lived who are connected with my family.

The day after I arrived, I went to a nearby phone kiosk to make some calls trying to find a cheaper place to stay. The owner of the kiosk named Hayford dialed the number I needed and handed me his cell phone. It cost about 25 pesawas a minute or about 20U.S. cents. Hayford overheard me ask about rooms. He said he knew of someone who rented to students inexpensively and has a room available.

The next day I met owner of the apartment, his name was Mr. Fudzie. He lived in a big house with a nice court yard. There was a bronze plaque at the doorway honoring him on his 60th birthday.

I told him I needed a place to stay for 10 days or so but was willing to pay for a month if the price was right. He said that he normally doesn't rent at that short of time and he asked me why I was in Ghana. I told him I was here to learn about the Ghanaian people and culture. I was an artist and an art teacher and planned on working in a village near Kumasi. I was also in this area to meet some nuns.

He asked me if I was Catholic. I said, "not really". He said, I know those nuns you're talking about. Then, he said to Hayford, "I see you've brought me trouble". I wasn't feeling very comfortable. Hayford reassured me Mr. Fudzie was a good man. He said he knew those nuns. They went to the same church as him.

He liked the idea that I was here to do some volunteer work, so, he offered me a room in his house. He said there was a free one available. I told him that was very nice of him but that I'd pay him anyways. He said no. So, I moved in with the Fudzie family for nine days and made me a part of their family.

They cooked me meals, gave me a phone to use, showed me around, and helped me get acclimated to Ghana. His wife, Mercy, cooked a lot, so I ate Banku, a corn meal and cassava staple, and also, fufu, which is mostly plantains and cassava smashed with water to create a doughey dumpling. Most people share a bowl of Fufu and eat it with their hands. A red peppery soup is often poured over it. People say not to chew it and usually swallow it. It's often difficult for westerners to eat because of it's gooey texture and wasn't easy for me to eat. I also ate Oxtail soup with fish which Mr. Fudzie particularly liked and I found pretty darn delicious.

Their son, Dodzi, age 24 lived at the house and worked at his dad's company. Mr. Fudzie owned a tire company and imported tires of all kinds and car batteries. He seemed to be doing very well.. Dodzie played me some of his Highlife songs that he had on his Ipod. He had about 2000 thousand songs on their. One song I liked was 'Enko Besie' by A Adofo. It's an old song and I was told later that it's about a guy traveling around the world trying to find fortune but returns to Ghana empty handed and heartbroken. I also listend to Kojo Antwi, Oheneba Kissi, and Kojo Antwi.

Mr. and Mrs. Fudzie's grand daughter also lived with them. Her name was Judith and was four years old. Her mother was living and working in Germany. Judith would often call Mr. and Mrs. Fudzie, "Opa and Oma". I would sometimes do drawings and collaborations with Judith using pens and colored pencils. She went to school during the day and would often practice writing her ABCs starting with upper case, A and then lower case a and then going throught the alpahabet.

Irene, their daughter, one of their daughters lived nearby and was often visiting. She would always be asking me if I needed anything and was very helpful.

Mr. Fudzie's daughter, Mabel was getting married in a couple weeks, so they had a large engagement party on Saturday, Feb. 28th. This is when the groom's family comes to the bride's family's home bringing gifts. The groom's family knocks at the door and people chant, "AGOE, AGO, AGO" Which means "someone's knocking" and then people chant, "AMAY, AMAY, AMAY" which means "Let Them In".

The idea being that if the bride's father or family doesn't like the groom, then they'll refuse to open the door and the wedding is off.

The groom's family walked in in single file baring baskets of gifts upon their heads wrapped in red celophane. Music playing, singing, the groom's family gathers on one side of the courtyard. The bride's on the other side. Mr. Fudzie explained that the groom's side is near the gate in order to make a quick leave if things don't go well. He smiled.

The MC, a woman with a deep voice and a few chin whiskers, says a prayer, and then the gifts are presented to the bride's family --checks to the parents of the bride and a check to the bride's brother. They supposedly can all refuse if the amount is not high enough and ask for a higher amount.

Speeches are made, jokes are made (Check for a million dollars presented to Mr. Fudzie.) There's dancing, singing, and praying.

The bride is presented with her girlfriends to music and fan fare and she enters.

The groom is presented through the gate with his male friends and family. Music and dancing as they pass the families.

The minister is there to give a prayer for the couple. The ring is presented. The photographers take pictures of the ring. The new-to-be couple sit together between the two families. The Engagement Ceremony lasts about two hours.

Then, the food and drink come. Two goats were "prepared" that morning. I ate several skewers of goatskin and onion kebabs. The kebabs have a wonderful red pepper that makes them spicily delicious. The buffet was full of rice and beans, fish, pasta salad, a beef stewed in red sauce. The groom's family, as guests, line up first to eat.

Star beer is served as well as Guinness. People enjoy themselves. I felt honored to be a part of it. I took a whole bunch of photos on my camera and subsequently lost them all when I changed the date. So it goes. The following week, on March 7th is the wedding in Kumasi. I'll be there and I'm invited!